South Coast Shopper

62706 Hwy 101 S

P.O. Box 1440

Coos Bay, OR 97420

Out Our Back Door

South Coast Towns Feature Bicycle Routes
Tom Baake
03/23/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: Bicyclists take in the inspiring view at Coquille Point in Bandon. This stop was on a proposed bicycle tour for South Coast towns. The route wasn't selected, but bicyclists can still enjoy it and the other rides.

Among projects to boost outdoor recreation for locals and visitors, the state's travel and tourism agency – called "Travel Oregon" – invited South Coast communities to submit proposals for a bicycle route that could be added to the roster of designated scenic bike routes. I'll discuss the winner in a moment, but elements of the other proposals are worth a mention.
Among the criteria was to minimize riding on already-overtaxed US 101. But since US 101 is the Oregon coast's "main street, it's difficult to completely avoid. Hence most routes had short segments on 101.
Bandon presented a challenge. For scenic values, it's hard to top Beach Loop Drive. But there are other possible routes north of town, necessitating riding along US 101 and crossing Bullards Bridge. From there, though, there are potential fun rides through Bullards Beach State Park and just past that, on the access roads through Bandon Dunes Golf Resort.
The other South Coast towns presented proposals. Gold Beach's proposal involved riding on the old US 101 section north of town to Nesika Beach and looping back through Cedar Valley and then down North Bank Ln. back to town.
The proposed Brookings route involved a ride up Chetco River Rd., among other things.
The winner was Port Orford, with a route that begins in town, heads north to ride up and back on Elk River Rd., then another short US 101 stint up to Cape Blanco State Park, and from there out to the cape and back.
On their return, bikers can detour to Paradise Point State Park before heading back to town on side roads paralleling US 101. All in all, the route fulfilled many of the specs, and joined the ranks of similar tours all over Oregon. The Travel Oregon website has maps and details of all of them.
Getting There
Other than discreet signs at a few intersections, there aren't any special indications of the bike route, and there's no other infrastructure involved, with already-existing restrooms and facilities at Battle Rock, Cape Blanco and the other parks and campgrounds.
Bicyclists can start a ride anywhere along the way. These directions begin at Battle Rock Park at the south end of Port Orford. (The route can also be driven in a vehicle.)
From Battle Rock, go north on US 101 one block and turn right on Jackson St. Follow it just under 1 mile to where it ends at 25th St., and turn left. In a few feet, turn right (N) on Port Orford Loop and follow it to US 101. Turn right (N) on US 101.
In a bit over 1 mile, turn right (E) on Elk River Rd. The river isn't visible until you near the state fish hatchery about 7.5 miles upriver. You can stop for a look at the fish, and there's a restroom and picnic table.
The Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest boundary is just beyond, with pavement continuing for 11 miles to USFS Butler Bar campground, with restrooms, picnic tables and campsites.
Retrace your route to US 101, and turn right (N) and go 1.1 miles to Cape Blanco State Park. Turn left (W) and follow the road to its end near the Cape Blanco Lighthouse.
Retrace your way back to US 101 and turn right (S) to return to Port Orford. To visit Paradise Point State Park, turn right (W) on Paradise Pt. Rd. and follow it to road's end. You can then continue returning to town either on US 101 or adjacent frontage roads. All in all, a great way to see the impressive variety of scenic settings here on the South Coast . . . not to mention good exercise!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of "Oregon South Coast Bicycle Ride Guide," available at bookstores, bike shops, Coos Bay Visitor Center, and at www.scod.com/guidebooks.)
Rainy Weather Keeps Waterfalls Flowing Full
Tom Baake
03/16/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: Visitors to Golden and Silver Falls State Park east of Coos Bay enjoy a breathtaking perspective "above the falls."

All the rain that keeps rolling in makes for some awesome waterfalls. It's tempting to go check them out, from the famous Golden and Silver Falls to the impressive cascades along the South Fork of the Coquille River beyond Powers. Most people are content with visiting them, but naturally I like to delve further. Call it research.My youthful companion and I have apparently done enough of this research for her to form some opinions. "I think I like them when they're not flowing so much," she said. "You can see more details and rocks and things."Still, It's exciting to sidle closer to all that thrilling power of nature. The water practically blasts sideways, as if temporarily defying gravity and the concept of the "fall" in waterfall. I had to agree, however, that sometimes it's more like a dam's spillway, or a hydro plant's outflow tube. All fury. Frothy fury.
For further insight, I consulted a brochure created by Peter Douglas for the U.S. Forest Service Powers Ranger District, in which the South Fork's geologic history and formation of the waterfalls are explained.
According to the brochure, our region is part of the Tyee Formation, composed of different types of sedimentary rock including siltstone, sandstone and a rock made up of gravel and pebble-sized rock fragments called conglomerate. As rivers carve channels through softer layers of siltstone, the water occasionally meets more resistant sandstone and conglomerate. "These resistant layers form a cliff over which streams drop vertically, creating a waterfall," the brochure states.
While the resistant layer at the top of the cliff -- called the caprock -- slows the erosion of softer layers underneath, water inevitably finds ways to the softer rock and erodes it, leaving the caprock as an overhang until finally it cannot support itself and falls as a large block. That explains why so many of the rocks in the falls' plunge pools look like carefully-cast concrete blocks.
Also helping shape the terrain is the tectonically-active Coquille River fault that in places follows the river and that over the eons has uplifted and broken up rocks along the fault line, making it easier for the river to erode the channel – and create waterfalls.
The South Fork waterfalls include Elk Creek Falls about 5 miles from Powers, and continue along the river's course along FS 3348 through Eden Valley, with Coquille River Falls, and another farther along.
They're all flowing so robustly that it's difficult to identify features. It's also hard to determine the waterfalls' category. Yes, category. It shouldn't be surprising that waterfall experts such as those behind the website www.worldwaterfalls.com, have identified 28 kinds of waterfalls, such as plunge, horsetail, cataract, tiered, punchbowl, ribbon, and veil.
There are also some excellent guidebooks: "A Waterfall Lover's Guide to the Pacific Northwest" by Gregory Alan Plumb, and Adam Sawyer's "Hiking Waterfalls in Oregon." Both are available through local libraries.
One of the most outstanding collection of waterfalls is along the Thundering Waters tour that follows the Umpqua River upstream from Roseburg. The Forest Service produces an excellent, colorful brochure on the subject with maps and directions to the many falls.
Any list of waterfalls in the South Coast region must begin with the aforementioned Golden and Silver Falls State Park, about 25 miles east of Coos Bay. At over 300 feet, it's higher than Niagara Falls and many other notable cascades. The Coast Range also has some interesting waterfalls, including Kentucky Falls and adjacent North Fork Falls, where it's possible to view two separate waterfalls coming off two different escarpments.
Which brings me back to my pursuit of knowledge. Who knows? Perhaps my youthful companion is correct – under all the water is an even more impressive setting, waiting to be revealed later in the season . . .
"We'll just have to go back and see," she said. Oh boy, more research!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks available at local bookstores, the Coos Bay Visitor Center and at www.scod.com/guidebooks.)
Gear Up for Outdoor Fun
Tom Baake
03/09/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: Mountain bikers get ready for a group ride at the Whiskey Run Mountain Bike Trail system in the Coos County Forest between Coos Bay and Bandon. The trails continue to attract new people as well as riders returning for more exploration.

The popularity of outdoor recreation continues to grow here on the South Coast, with more opportunities becoming available and other projects in the planning and construction phases. From new hiker/biker trail systems to a greater array of family-oriented events, to more in-town offerings and new wheelchair accessible paddler launch sites, these are busy times on the outdoor recreation scene.
That was the takeaway at two events last Thursday, one in North Bend led by Oregon Trail Coalition director Steph Noll and her staff, and the other in Coos Bay, where Gabe Howe, director of Ashland-based Siskiyou Mountain Club, shared photos and updates of his group's trail restoration in the region's National Forest wilderness areas. There are work parties scheduled in the coming months for which volunteers can sign up, as well as guided recreational hikes to enjoy trails restored by club members. Among the offerings is a March 31-April 2 hike on the Mule Creek Trail on Bureau of Land Management forest near Panther Ridge south of Powers. Get details at https://siskiyoumountainclub.org/. Said Howell: "There are lots of ways to get involved."
The group's work is especially valuable as nearly all the trails and special places were affected by forest fires in recent years, said Howe. Also challenging were cutbacks in Forest Service and BLM trail maintenance crew staffing. "We've built a strong team that believes in what we're doing," said Howe.
Meantime, groundbreaking began this week on the Hundred Acre Woods hiker/biker trail system in Coquille. In an interview, Coquille Public Works director Mark Denning said the trailbuilding firm Ptarmigan Ptrails will proceed in phases. Some logging still needs to be done in one section on the city-owned 144-acre tract. Next on the schedule is a parking lot, restrooms and a sewer line. Denning hopes to allow limited public access by this summer.
He noted the project is 95 percent grant funded, with money from Oregon State Parks, Travel Oregon and the Oregon Lottery, along with foundations such as the Wild Rivers Coast Alliance. For more information and to view a map, go to https://www.cityofcoquille.org/, then select Community Services, then choose Hundred Acre Woods.
At last Thursday's Oregon Trails Coalition, attendees heard updates about local projects and statewide activities. They're working on a family-oriented program called "Hike It Baby." Coalition director Noll and her staff are excited about the Oregon Outdoor Recreation Summit set for November 2-4 at the Mill Casino in North Bend, which she says will bring together more than 200 recreation, conservation, planning, tourism, and health professionals, along with agency staff, policy makers, advocates, and "visionaries." Get details at https://www.oregontrailscoalition.org/
They also hope to help figure out some in-town options for "urban" trails and potential hikes.
The group also supported installation of wheelchair-friendly paddler launches in Reedsport, Ten Mile Lakes, Empire Lakes, Bandon and Gold Beach, with more to come.
Another positive sign is the return of free field trips led by knowledgeable guides from the South Slough National Estuarine Reserve. Beginning at 10 a.m. on Wednesday, March 15, check out the abundant birdlife at Millicoma Marsh Trails in Coos Bay's Eastside district. Another visit is set for April 8.
There will be South Slough-sponsored trips on March 18 and April 22 to Golden and Silver Falls State Park east of Coos Bay, with free transportation included so you can relax and enjoy the ride.
"Introduction to Crabbing" is the name of the free workshop set for March 24, while "Introduction to Clamming" will be offered on April 8. Find out more about all these and other activities, and sign up for them, at https://www.oregon.gov/dsl/SS/Pages/CommunityClassReg.aspx
The South Slough will also continue to offer a steady stream of programs – with an emphasis on all kinds of activities for youngsters -- as well as reaching out to welcome volunteers for their various research, stewardship and restoration projects.
So whether you like to just enjoy outdoor outings at a leisurely pace, or want to "dig in" and get more involved, there are obviously lots of opportunities.
And the list of goes on, with more things planned as spring unfolds and we swing into the summer season. . . Here's hoping you can enjoy the fun!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of guidebooks available at bookstores, the Coos Bay Visitor Center and at www.scod.com/guidebooks.)
Have Fun Exploring South Coast Rivers
Tom Baake
03/02/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: The distinctive Isaac Patterson Bridge in Gold Beach spans the mighty Rogue River. Use the bridge to make a loop tour up and back on the Rogue.

Most towns along Oregon's South Coast are about 25 miles apart, so it's relatively easy to find your way around or give directions. In most cases, US 101 is "main street." Each town also features its own unique river or estuary, and of course all share proximity to the Pacific Ocean.
Some of the rivers are crossed in magnificent fashion, such as the distinctive highway bridges over the Rogue River in Gold Beach and McCullough Bridge in North Bend. Others you almost have to crane your neck to see while going by on US 101, such as the Sixes and Elk rivers near Port Orford.
Most rivers are accessible from riverbank roads. Some, such as the mighty Rogue, have roads on both sides in their lower sections.
Along the Chetco River in Brookings, you start a river trip on the north side and cross to the south side about 8 miles up. A highlight is the northernmost stand of coastal redwoods in Alfred Loeb State Park.
For those who explore in high-clearance or 4-wheel-drive vehicles, there are rugged back ways that cross many of the South Coast watershed divides. (Obtain the combined U.S. Forest Service Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest/Bureau of Land Management map before roaming the back roads.)
As for the previously-mentioned Rogue, in the lower section you can go up the south side for about 10 miles, then cross Lobster Creek Bridge and come back down on North Bank Rd. You end up on the north side of the bridge at Gold Beach.
There are scenic, paved river routes along both the Elk and Sixes rivers north of Port Orford. The Elk is best, with dramatic settings and renowned scenery. It's paved for 18 miles up.
The Coquille River just north of Bandon has paved access roads on both its south bank (Highway 42 S) and north bank (North Bank Ln.) along the river's lower reaches. Both are about 20 miles long and it's easy to link the two for a leisurely loop drive.
The Coos River in Coos Bay has a well-traveled route up its north side that ends up following the Millicoma River to the one-time settlement of Allegany, and beyond to Golden and Silver Falls State Park.
In Reedsport, the impressive Umpqua River is paralleled along its lower reaches by state Highway 38, which travels the river's south side about 15 miles before crossing over at Scottsburg and continuing on the north side.
In Florence, an inland route on state Highway 126 follows the north bank of the Siuslaw River about 20 miles to Mapleton, where the highway takes a route away from the river.
North of Florence, it's another 25 miles to Yachats, but after that the gaps between towns aren't so neatly spaced. It's 8 miles from Yachats to Waldport and another 16 to Newport. The pattern continues up the coast, with settlements at the mouths of nearly every river.
Each share common characteristics, and all offer scenic rewards and recreational opportunities, with some creative ways to get to them!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks available at local bookstores, the Coos Bay Visitor Center and at www.scod.com/guidebooks.)

South Slough Springtime

02/23/2023
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PHOTO CAPTION: A visitor wanders a path between waterways at the South Slough near Charleston.

Balmy interludes may tempt thoughts of a false spring, but if this week's frigid weather is any indication, winter isn't quite done with us. Yet the hours and minutes of daylight are noticeably increasing, and most of us are looking forward to March 12 – just weeks away! -- when we move the clocks ahead and gain even more daylight, followed the next week by the first day of spring.
Signs of the impending season are everywhere, perhaps best seen in the show of blossoms on the many plum and cherry trees in our communities. Most are species that won't bear fruit, and the blossoms don't last long, but few things say spring better than a blooming cherry tree.
Out in the woods the signs of spring are more subtle, but the rain-drenched earth is yielding up an impressive variety of fresh flora that can be enjoyed by knowledgeable visitors and folks just out for a walk.
A great place to check it out is South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve near Charleston. This is the Bay Area's premier "back door" getaway, with many possibilities for walks as well as kayak, canoe or stand-up paddle board exploration. All offer a different perspective of the coastal wetlands, forests, and rivers that make up South Slough Reserve. A brochure and trail map is available online and at an outdoor rack at the Reserve's interpretive center.
Set aside in 1974 as America's first estuary preserve, South Slough protects more than 4800 acres of tidelands and upland forest for research, education and limited recreation. It's the largest arm of the vast Coos Bay Estuary, which spreads nearly 20 square miles.
Estuaries are protected embayments where rivers meet the sea. The continual motion of ocean tides and upland runoff provides nutrients for a wide variety of plants and animals – from salt-tolerant grasses and plants to worms, clams and other tiny creatures buried in the mud.
Multitudes of young fish and crabs grow up in this wild nursery, and along with insects and amphibians, they provide a source of food for resident and migratory waterfowl and birds.
As mentioned, there are hiking trails and an interpretive center, and the waterways can be accessed from a couple of places. Admission is free and the trails are open year round for day-use. Leashed dogs are okay except on the dog-free North Trail. Most of the trails can be linked for longer walks and loops. About 1 mile south of the interpretive center is the Hinch Lane access -- a mile-long gravel road leads to a popular paddler put in/take out, and there's another trail, although the trail's currently closed due to a landslide.
And of course you don't have to wait until spring to enjoy South Slough – it's fun in every season, and it's right "out our back door!"
Getting There
From US 101 in Coos Bay or North Bend, follow signs to Charleston, State Parks, Ocean Beaches. Once in Charleston, head west on Cape Arago Highway. Just west of town, go left (S) on Seven Devils Rd., following the sign to South Slough Reserve and Bandon.
The road curves up into the hills, with clearcuts sometimes opening up vistas, while the growing-back forest hems in the road in other places.
At 4.4 miles is the interpretive center, where as noted you can access trails and loops. The
Hidden Creek Trail is a favorite, descending through thick stands of salal, Oregon grape and huckleberry, while overhead a classic mixed-species forest of cedar, fir, hemlock and spruce rocks gently in the breeze.
A highlight along this trail is the Skunk Cabbage Walk, a wooden walkway that traverses a leafy sea of this distinctive and aromatic plant. Farther along is a two-level platform for wildlife viewing, where you might spot a stately blue heron or snow-white egret feeding along the mudflats.
And meantime, signs of spring abound. Every turn yields fresh discoveries, from big, blooming huckleberry plants to tiny, intense wildflowers. While overhead, the big trees rock and sigh in the breeze . . .

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks available at local bookstores, the Coos Bay Visitor Center and at www.scod.com/guidebooks.)