With two floors of absorbing artifacts, photos and displays, the carefully restored and maintained former Coast Guard Lifesaving Center in Port Orford State Park is open daily except Tuesdays with free admission. Nearby are easy walks on scenic trails.

While many visitor-dependent businesses and activities traditionally wait until Memorial Day Weekend to open for the season, the volunteers who operate some of Port Orford’s fun attractions get a jump on the action by opening in April and May, which means that right now is a good time to check things out.

Port Orford’s fascinating historical attractions -- Cape Blanco Lighthouse, classic Hughes House and Port Orford Lifeboat Station museum – are all open daily except Tuesdays. The light itself no longer has tours inside the top, but the ground-floor workroom is open, and there are interesting artifacts and photos. There’s also a small gift shop and interpretive center.

Oregon’s oldest continuously-operating lighthouse was built in 1870. It’s also the most westerly lighthouse in the contiguous U.S., has the highest focal plane above the sea (256 feet), and had Oregon’s first woman keeper in 1903 – Mabel E. Bretherton.

Within Cape Blanco State Park is Hughes House, built in 1898 for a pioneer family. Authentically restored, it features 11 rooms decorated with period furniture and interesting artifacts. Knowledgeable volunteers offer historical tidbits.

Equally impressive is the setting above Sixes River, with views of rolling pastures, dense forests and the ocean. There’s a nifty picnic area along the Sixes River, as well as trails to the river and beach. Other trails throughout the park lead to postcard-perfect viewpoints, and there are several potential loops.

Meantime, in town, the Port Orford Lifeboat Station museum in Port Orford Heads State Park occupies former U.S. Coast Guard barracks, with displays, photos and memorabilia about life-saving and coast-watch activities, as well as Port Orford history.

A 36-ft. motor lifeboat is on display, and everything’s set amidst venerable spruce, cedar and pines, along with vintage landscaping plants and a resident population of nonchalant deer.

Well-marked, chip-lined hiking trails lead to panoramic vista points, and you can look down to Nellies Cove, where lifesaving boats were kept at the ready. All in all, whether hiking a soaring headland trail or absorbed in historical minutiae, you’ll find lots of stimulus for mind and body on a fine Spring day in Port Orford.

Getting There

Cape Blanco State Park is 5 miles north of Port Orford. Watch for signs along US 101 marking the park turnoff, and follow the access road, which passes the Hughes House in about 5 miles and reaches the lighthouse at about 6 miles.

Access to Port Orford Lifeboat Station museum is via 9th St. in mid-town Port Orford. Proceed west up Coast Guard Hill to the park

All three sites are open from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Wednesday to Monday (including “holiday Mondays”). All three are closed on Tuesdays.

Get more details at www.capeblancoheritagesociety.com or their Facebook page.

Other Port Orford attractions include three significant beaches – Battle Rock at the south end of town, Agate Beach at Tseriadun State Recreation Site on the “west side” (Pacific Ocean) of town and Paradise Point State Recreation Site at the north end of town. There’s also a mid-town wetland interpretive area with raised wooden walkways and viewing spots, as well as historic Battle Rock Park, a designated scenic bicycle route, and the unique “Dolly Dock” on which fishing boats are hoisted and parked on trailers.

As might be deduced, there’s lots to see and do in pretty Port Orford. Spring on down!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of local guidebooks available at the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)

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Framed by dense beds of mussels exposed at low tide, a beachgoer contemplates the rocky shoreline of the South Coast and some of its fascinating tidepools.

There will be a total of 17 minus tides this May, which isn’t unheard-of but is still remarkable, and will include some of the year’s lowest tides. It’s a tidepooler’s dream! Best of all, many of the low tides will occur in the morning, well before the inevitable summer wind kicks in.

As I discussed in a recent column, minus tides are determined after experts figure out the “lowest low” tides of the year. Tides lower than that lowest low are called minus tides, and they’re the best times to beachcomb and visit tidepools. It’s a simple matter of consulting a tidebook or tide table.

But why exactly do tidepools form along the rocky portions of the coastline? Why do all these organisms crowd into such rough, wave-battered and weatherbeaten environments, and risk exposure during twice-daily low tides, when they have the whole ocean to live in?

In his definitive field guide “The Northwest Coast,” author Stewart T. Schultz writes that “over evolutionary time, most intertidal species moved upwards to escape voracious and extremely efficient predators and competitors in deeper waters. In other words, for most species the zone between high and low tide is a high-stress refuge from natural enemies . . . “

But for all the weather and waves and drama, he writes, “rocky shores are wonderfully easy to study,” because most of their inhabitants are generally fixed in one zone, or are slow-moving. Indeed, “the most noticeable attribute is their almost universal layout in distinct, ordered, horizontal bands. This zonation is similar to that of forest communities on mountain slopes.“

The four zones are the spray or splash zone, and the high, middle and low tide zones. Each has its own flora and fauna, some enduring long periods of sun and drying wind twice every day during low tides, and others living deeper or farther out and only uncovered briefly during occasional minus tides.

The spray or splash zone is the domain of barnacles, small snails, limpets and several kinds of algae.

The next zone – the high tidal zone – includes scurrying rock crabs, an abundance of barnacles and mussels, rockweed, lime-green sea lettuce, anemones, chitons, snails and sea stars.

In the lowest tide zone are anemones of all kinds, calcareous tube worms, brilliant sponges, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, and many other delightful and seldom-seen species, according to the 1989 field guide “Tidepools,” by Diana Barnhart and Vicki Leon.

Some of the most fun tidepooling is around the rocky shoreline of the Cape Arago area near Charleston. Much of the coastline is designated as a protected “marine garden” in the state parks system, with restrictions against collecting, so you’ll see lots of variety. Tidepools begin at the south end of Bastendorff Beach, and can also be reached at both ends of Sunset Bay, and the tip of Cape Arago, where South Cove offers some of the best tidepooling.

Continuing south, the rocky parts of the shore at Seven Devils State Recreation Site and Whiskey Run beach north of Bandon hide modest tidepools, as do the rocky areas at the north end of Bandon Beach, at Coquille Point. Farther south, there are tidepools at Cape Blanco State Park near Port Orford, Battle Rock Park in Port Orford, South Sisters State Recreation Site (Frankport rocks) south of Port Orford, Cape Sebastian State Park south of Gold Beach and Harris Beach State Park in Brookings.

Wherever you go and whatever you mission, remember to beware of larger-than-normal “sneaker waves” that can occur at any time of year or tide status. The saying is “never turn your back on the ocean.” I also always try to have one foot on solid ground or rocks, to maintain stability and sudden ”scramability” in case of sudden big waves. Here’s hoping that with caution and a bit of common sense, you can enjoy this fun activity as spring arrives in the tidepools of the South Coast.

Peaceful waters of Sunset Bay near Charleston attract sunbathers, surfers, swimmers, anglers, and paddlers, while on shore there are sandcastles to build, tidepools to visit, and plenty more to explore.

Gas prices continue their maddening climb, putting a damper on long excursions. So I started a list of fun places and things that don’t require driving long distances from the Coos Bay area. It turned out to be a surprisingly long list. Starting at the ocean, with beaches and tidepools, followed by dunes, lakes, waterfalls, rivers, and forestlands. Add in trails for hikers, bikers and horseback riders, and for man-made attractions such as golf courses, swimming pools, casinos, libraries, interpretive centers and museums – even an excellent aquarium.

So I winnowed the list down farther, to just the state parks and Bastendorff County Park, all near Charleston.

And don’t think this tour is just about scenery. There could be science! You can potentially encounter everything from dramatic geology to botanical riches...

For example, after visiting Bastendorff, next stop is Sunset Bay State Park, with a pretty stretch of forest-framed beach. So where’s the science? Right at your feet, at either end of the  each, tidepools are exposed at low or outgoing tide.

But wait, more science! Here too is dramatic geology: Two gigantic tectonic “plates” have collided, sending one plunging beneath the other. You can see how they’ve buckled, and clearly observe fault lines running from the headlands to the rocky shoreline. Add in eons of erosion to create further strangeness.

But I’m getting ahead of things. Let’s back up to Charleston: Wander around the docks where the commercial fleet ties up. Crabbing is also allowed on the docks. The Charleston Marine  Life Center is adjacent to the Oregon Institute of Marine Biology. It’s the only place in this article to charge a fee although kids get in free. Elsewhere in Charleston, there’s a public fishing dock at the west end of the Charleston Bridge. At the east end is the access to the Charleston Boatyard, humming with activity.

Just west of Charleston is Seven Devils Road, a scenic back way toward Bandon. Along the way (4 miles) is the South Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve, with interpretive displays, hiking trails and paddler access.

Also along Seven Devils Rd. is access to the Whiskey Run Mountain Trail Bike system, with 32 miles of trails.

Meantime back in Charleston, continue west on Cape Arago Hwy about 1 mile and turn right (N) on gravel Coos Head Rd. In 0.2 mile turn left on a gravel road and follow it 0.2 mile to a Y intersection.

Bear left and continue 0.3 mile to the watchtower above the entrance to the Coos Bay estuary. The road’s open during daylight. Beware of huge potholes!

Next is Bastendorff County Park and Beach. Beach is 1+ mile long, with tidepools at the south end. Upslope is the county park, with picnic tables and a play area. Next along Cape Arago Hwy is access to Yoakum Point State Recreation Site, with a footpath to Smelt Beach and other pocket beaches.

Next is pretty Sunset Bay, offering a protected little beach for kids to splash around, and tidepools. Here too is fascinating exposed geology mentioned earlier.

Shore Acres State Park, crown jewel of the state parks, has hundreds of plants, flowers and trees, along with a rose garden. There’a nice gift shop. In it find a handy guidebook called Sunset Bay - Shore Acres-Cape Arago: The Geologic Story, by George E. Mustoe. This could extend your stay for many more hours, checking out the geology.

Shore Acres State Park boasts one of the best wave-watching spots, with huge waves exploding against dramatically slanted rocks.

The Oregon Coast Trail runs along headlands here, and can be picked up in several access points along Cape Arago Hwy. Just south and below Shore Acres is Simpson Beach, with geological formations called concretions.

The Cape Arago Pack Trail was once the main route, now a hiking trail. About a third of a mile up from the north end are concrete barracks used by coastal patrols in World War II.

Next is Simpson Reef Sealion Overlook, where hundreds of the critters bask and yowl. Next is the tip of Cape Arago, a premier viewpoint

Around the south side of the cape is South Cove. A mostly paved trail leads down to a beach with tidepools. And the list goes on . . .

As might be deduced, there’s a plethora of cool places to explore only a few easy miles away, just “out our back door.” Check them out!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of guidebooks available at the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)

A hiker enjoys the view from atop Humbug Mountain south of Port Orford.

A big branch from an old Port Orford Cedar near the start of the Humbug Mountain trail had sheared off and smashed into a gangling myrtlewood tree growing next to it. What an interesting combination of smells! The myrtlewood tree was letting loose with a blizzard of dying leaves that wafted down in the springtime sun, smelling for all the world like a gigantic cauldron of pea soup, while the Port Orford Cedar wasn’t much disturbed, as if losing a branch now and then was a natural occurrence.

Which, I suppose, it is.

But set amidst the wounded myrtlewood and specimens of bigleaf maple, alder, spruce, fir, madrone and Western red cedar, the Port Orford Cedar was clearly the most distinctively aromatic.

Indeed, most reference sources attest to its decidedly different profile compared to other cedars. Often described as gingery and sweetly woody, it has notes of pine, fennel, and anise and a hint of what’s called “balsamic herbaceousness.”

While the varied scents excite the senses, the optics are also impressive, as right now i s primo wildflower time at Humbug Mountain State park south of Port Orford. Trilliums literally line the trails, and you might spot Columbia lilies, bleeding hearts and sorel, while berries such as current, elderberries,blackberries, thimbleberries, huckleberries, and salmonberries are leafing up.

Among the remarkable aspects of a hike up 1,756-ft Humbug Mountain is its transit through different climate zones, from maritime level at the beach, to the cool and shaded north side, to the drier tanoak slopes on the east side.

According to the 2004 edition of Hiking Oregon’s Geology by Ellen, Allen and John Bishop, Humbug Mountain was formed 130 million years ago, in the early Cretaceous period, when islands in the Klamath microcontinent collided, uplifting primordial mountains composed of mostly sandstone. Ancient rivers eroded these mountains, and the sediment and sandstone was deposited on the seashore. Then, the microcontinent collided with the North American continent, uplifting Humbug Mountain in the process.

Near the summit, rock outcrops of granite and sandstone can still be found.

Humbug had several names, including an Indian one. It was later dubbed Humbug after a party of settlers got turned around when exploring.

The 3-mile hike to the top of Humbug Mountain south of Port Orford has always been challenging, but over the years trees grew in around the top, and views were limited. The situation has improved considerably thanks to an Oregon State Parks project to clear some trees at the top to re-open the sweeping southward panorama.

Getting There

From Port Orford, head south on US 101. Humbug looms in the distance. In about 4 miles turn right into the trailhead parking area.

The trail begins amidst a wonderful mixed-species forest, crossing a rocky creekbed and immediately heading uphill, taking on the first of many switchbacks. US 101 seems to shrink as you rise above it, with traffic sounds soon replaced by wind in the trees, the creek’s rushing waters, and the nearby booming ocean. Every turn seems to reveal an ever-more-awesome old-growth trees. The trail briefly parallels the babbling brook, then crosses it, and from there mellows a bit as it continues to the top.

Just under 1 mile is a crossroads, where a sign informs the West trail is 1.5 miles to the summit, and East trail 2 miles. For this tour, take the less-strenuous East trail.

The trail rounds the mountain’s east side and transitions to a climate zone of spindly tanoaks, spiky beargrass, maidenhair ferns, huckleberry, salal and Oregon grape.

The trail swings back around to the western slopes and meets the West trail for the final push.

And then here’s the top, with the grand southward view as promised. Hand -hewn benches and seats have been carved from some of the stumps left over from the selective logging.

When heading back down, take West trail. As mentioned, it’s steeper. Here, too, some trees have been removed to improve views.

A few more turns downhill is the East-West trail junction passed earlier, and from there the descent continues back to the parking area. A hearty well done, and that’s no humbug!

(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks available at the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)