In the days before improved roads, milk was transported from farms in 10-gallon cans that were picked up by riverboats such as the Alert and taken to dairies and creameries. The Alert was retired many years ago and left to weather the elements, but eventually was acquired by the Coos History Museum and displayed outside the museum. Unfortunately, it was recently vandalized and burned.
It’s Coos County Fair week (and Curry County too), and I usually acknowledge the occasion by writing about some unusual or unexpected aspect of our regional agricultural scene.
Last year I retold the tale of how tobacco, of all things, was Coos County’s first commercial crop. It was called Coquille Leaf and was shipped by the ton to appreciative San Francisco customers. Why tobacco? Turns out some settlers came from families with a history of tobacco growing, and continued the tradition here in Coos County.
Past columns recalled other unusual agricultural ventures, such as silkworms. In 1893, promoters sold handbooks about silk culture as well as 2200 mulberry trees, on which silkworms grow. Records from 1897 show 76 pounds of raw silk were produced from 228 pounds of cocoon material, and sold for six dollars a pound.
An unusual crop that took root here about 100 years ago and continues to be part of the Curry County agricultural scene are lily flowers and bulbs. According to Bill Mast’s 2014 book “Coos County Agriculture,” the lily bulb industry in southwestern Oregon owes its beginnings to U.S. Dept. of Agriculture scientist Louis Houghton, who developed hybrid lily bulbs. He later settled in Bandon and planted lily bulbs, sharing some with friends, neighbors and tourists.
Burned out by the 1936 Bandon fire, he relocated to Brookings, where bulbs and flowers are still produced on the coastal plain south of town.
Cranberries are another specialty crop that found fertile ground in Coos County beginning in 1885, and remain a highly visible part of the local economy.
Corn was such a popular crop that it spawned the yearly Coquille Corn Show, featuring exhibits, merchant stalls, foot races, food booths, corn husking, rope jumping contests, boxing matches and dances.
Potatoes were a major cultivated crop in Coos County, although rancher/writer Mast and other sources note that potatoes depleted the soil and constantly required new ground . They faded as a commercial crop.
While many ranchers and farmers met with crop successes that continue to this day, it’s generally agreed that dairying and ranching was –and is – more profitable.
According to Mast’s book, in 1914 there were 12 cheese factories that churned out 1.4 million pounds of cheese, 846,372 pounds of butter, and 30,000 cans of condensed milk. Those numbers suffered drastic downturns in later years, but some farms found renewed life going organic.
Interesting statistics and many colorful stories and biographies, along with maps and photos can be found in a new book by local historian and retired timber executive Bill Lansing of North Bend. His earlier research resulted in comprehensive books on such subjects as salmon, sawmills and railroads.
In his new book, “Curds and Whey, A History of Creameries and Cheese Factories in Coos and Curry Counties,” Lansing writes that “in the early years, most local dairy farmers’ raw milk was used to make butter, but as time went on, many of the creameries changed to making cheese. Butter, however, was much easier to make than cheese (and) had the advantage of being made simply by churning the milk . . . and it was immediately available. Cheese, on the other hand, required more sophisticated processing and storage as it aged.”
Most dairy farmers belonged to co-operatives that shared costs and profits. There are still some co-ops, and at present there are 9 dairies in Coos County and none in Curry. For the most part, however, ranchers long ago switched to raising beef cattle.
By taking a leisurely drive, you can view substantial herds in the pastures along all the rivers, inlets and sloughs of the Coos Estuary, and in the Coquille River Valley. The bounty continues!
(Bill Lansing’s new book and all his previous works, are available through the Coastline library system in Coos and Curry counties.)
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is a seasonal ranch hand and author of local guidebooks available at the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)
A visitor looks over a trail map/sign affixed to a tree at the recently-completed Hundred Acre Wood hiker and mountain bike trail system in Coquille.
It was early morning but temperatures were already on the rise in the Coquille River Valley. I decided it would be cool relief to visit the excellent new hiker and mountain bike trail system on the eastern edge of Coquille, with the intriguing name of the Hundred Acre Wood.
It’s actually more like 148 acres, said Coquille public works director Mark Denning in a recent interview, but the reference to the famed Winnie the Pooh storybook setting was apparently too good to pass up.
Denning and other city staffers have been shepherding the trail project through the various stages of approval, funding and construction, including the acquisition of important grants.
For the work, the city hired Ptarmigan Ptrails, who also designed the popular Whiskey Run Mountain Bike trail system in the Coos County Forest between Coos Bay and Bandon.
Like most such projects, it’s done in stages, with the recently-completed Phase I offering approximately 5 miles of trails, as well as a parking area, plumbed restroom, ADA parking, a picnic area, and a pavilion. There are even leashed hand tools for bike repairs.
Public works director Denning said finishing touches include more picnic tables as well as durable signs to replace temporary versions. Phase II will add 35 acres, including a loop around the whole property.
As for the trails, they’re a delight. Well-graded, cleared of roots and rocks, wide enough for passing, and lined with gravel, most are long, gentle switchbacks that ease riders up and down the slopes, inspiring the term “flow trails.” Most accommodate walkers and bikers, while some are exclusively for one or the other.
Bikers are offered a multitude of styles and experiences, ranging from low-risk to technically demanding. For example, mountain bikers seeking a fun, “gravity oriented” bike experience can check out south side trails, while trails in the northeast corner offer a more “subdued nature experience,” according to the planning documents.
Visitors can craft routes and loops of longer lengths or do short, after-work recreation. The short loops will be especially useful during winter’s limited daylight hours. Local schools can also use the trail system for outdoor education activities.
According to the planning documents, the city-owned parcel consists of two significant drainages and their smaller forks comprising Dutch John Creek. The topography consists of gentle ridgetops that roll into very steep hillsides, while the geology consists of sandy clays from ancient sea dunes, alluvial river deposits, and serpentine near the headwaters of each drainage.
Much of the southern portion of the property was logged approximately 20 years ago and now consists mostly of replanted Douglas fir. In other places visitors will pass through a mixed forest of large Big Leaf Maple, stands of myrtlewood, Douglas Fir and mid-aged stands of Red Alder. Red Cedar is also abundant. As for the name Hundred Acre Wood, you’ll not likely encounter any bears there, not even the kind that spells it H-u-n-n-y.
Getting There
You can download a map from the City of Coquille website.
The trails are literally minutes from town. From downtown Coquille, head east on E. First St., which is the street between the Sawdusters Theater and Safeway. Go 5 blocks and turn right (S) on Folsom St. In one long block turn left (E) on S. First Ave. and follow it up to the park entrance, marked by a Hundred Acre Wood sign.
The parking lot was empty during my recent visit, but I talked to a couple of mountain bikers who had ridden up from their home a few blocks away. They’d been having fun checking out all the possible routes and loops, and look forward to the planned expansion.
As for me, my next visit will definitely include my mountain bike. And who knows? I might even try out one of those “gravity oriented” trails!
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of guidebooks available at the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)
The beach at Loon Lake east of Reedsport is a popular destination for cool relief from summer temperatures.
As temperatures soar to record highs throughout the West, the Oregon coast remains the coolest and most comfortable place to be right now. What a great excuse to get out and enjoy some of the region’s famous scenery and natural beauty!
Still, it can seem hot to locals not accustomed to the heat. One trick to outfox the high temperatures is to situate yourself near some water, preferably in the shade. This is easily accomplished as we’re fortunate to be within easy distance of open water in just about every South Coast community.
Starting of course with the ocean, which will undoubtedly remain a prime destination. In the North Bend/Coos Bay area, it will be the beaches of Cape Arago – from expansive Bastendorff to little-visted Lighthouse to ever-popular Sunset Bay, and all the many coves. Just north of the bay is the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area (ODNRA), with beaches and lakes offering near instant relief.
At the beach, the usual hum of activity takes in everything from off -road vehicles to walkers and horseback riders to serious surfperch anglers to kids and dogs frolicking along the water’s edge. Teens try out skimboards and other toys, while impressively-designed sandcastles, bullwhip kelp mandalas and driftwood forts might be encountered.
The twin nemesises of a summer day at the beach on the Oregon coast are the fog and wind, which can quickly chill enthusiasm for all activities listed above. This week may be exception, however, as any cool relief is welcome.
Other water-related options begin immediately inland, beginning with bays and estuaries that offer many sheltered and shaded options. This would be a good time to break out your kayak or canoe or boat and do a little exploring. Remember to wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunscreen.
You could spend many days checking out all the places to boat or paddle in this region. From the vast spreads of water at such lakes as Ten Mile, Tahkenitch, and Siltcoos, to the little tucked-away places like Lake Marie near Winchester Bay or Butterfield Lake in Riley Ranch County Park, to all the rivers and streams . . .
Even sometimes right in the middle of town, such as Empire Lakes in Coos Bay.
As for beaches, not all of them are at the ocean. There are nice “man-made” beaches (mostly intended for youngsters) at Ten Mile Lakes County Park in Lakeside, and at Eel Lake in William Tugman State Park just north of Lakeside. Across US 101 from the entrance to Tugman State Park, follow Wildwood Drive a half-mile to the entrance to Hall Lake, a day-use area that’s part of the Oregon Dunes. There are two pretty lakes and a big sand slope youngsters delight in sliding down on cardboard. Other sandy beaches are at Lake Marie in Winchester Bay and the Bureau of Land Management’s Loon Lake day-use area. As well as at the just-mentioned Empire Lakes.
The South Slough National Estuarine Sanctuary near Charleston is another potential cool destination, especially for those with kayaks, canoes and stand -up paddle boards. There are miles of waterways to explore, and guided trips.
Other places have rental boats, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards – Honeyman State Park and Dunes City (Siltcoos River) to name a few. You can also rent SUPs and other gear from two businesses in Coos Bay.
Bandon’s beaches are world famous, so it’s easy to overlook some other nice places to cool off, such as Bradley Lake just south of town. The same might be said of Garrison Lake in Port Orford, often overshadowed by the community’s excellent beaches.
South Coast Tours in Gold Beach offers guided kayak trips along an awesomely-beautiful section of the Oregon coastline that includes many dramatic rock arches.
Swimming may be the ultimate cool relief. Check out Eel Lake in Tugman State Park near Lakeside. With a 5 mph speed limit on boats, it’s a favorite with paddlers and swimmers, and also has dozens of shaded coves to pull into and relax.
There are public swimming pools in Coquille, Coos Bay, North Bend and Reedsport.
And what better place to hide out on a hot day than at such South Coast gems as the swimming holes on the South Fork of the Coquille River outside of Powers or the Chetco River near Brookings or Hunter Creek near Gold Beach, or wait – am I giving away your favorite place?
Well, the list is long, summer is fleeting, you know what to do -- get out and enjoy it.
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks.)
Youngsters test the waters at Nesika County Park near Allegany in pursuit of not-very-elusive crawdads. What fun!
There’s nothing new about the battle to disengage people from their multitude of distractions in favor of some sort of outdoor activity and good old fresh air. As evidence may I present a nifty little guidebook called “Don’t Just Sit!” with the subtitle “Coos-Curry Capsules.” Even though it was written way back in 1973 by Audrey Loftus of Coos Bay, the advice and conclusions are as fresh as today’s headlines.
She calls the 42-page booklet “a capsulated guide for people who want to become better acquainted with the colorful past and interesting present of Coos and Curry Counties. Every adventure can be taken for just the cost of gasoline.”
Mrs. Loftus writes that hers was a “family-oriented clan traveling by the carload and sometimes by several carloads. I believe affinity among family members comes from doing fun things together – not in stuffy nightclubs, organized play areas or before a television set, but among the God-given things of nature and in contemplation of man’s past actions which elucidate our history.”
The first trip is to Golden and Silver Falls, with a stop at what these days is called Nesika County Park. “Now,” she writes, “everyone out to catch crawdads!” She provides some background and tips – “the rocks are slippery so wear sneakers” – and even offers a “recipe for happiness” that includes “one summer day and as many children as can be held in your heart.”
The result: “Fun! The joyous splashing, whooping and laughing is tremendous ,” she writes.
“Crawdads always back up so approach from behind whenever possible. The trick is to get the net over them before they disappear under a rock.”
Leave the smaller ones “for you will want to come again next summer.” You can of course just have fun catching them and letting them go. If you’re going to eat them, boil the ’dads in salted water for about 10 minutes. Eat the tail section and any claws large enough to crack. If your party includes an experienced “mudbugger,” he or she can show you how to wedge open the little crustaceans – which taste like freshwater lobsters. Crawdads can be found in most coastal rivers. No license is required and the season is open 24 hours a day all year round.
The next chapter is one of several that describes a trip to a place much changed. The Forest Giant in the McKinley vicinity was said to be the world’s largest Douglas fir, but was deemed unsafe by the Bureau of Land Management and cut down in the late 1990s. (BLM officials said the tree was dying and might shed branches that could injure visitors.)
A larger fir – the Doerner fir -- was subsequently discovered and is still growing several canyons away, so I suppose the spirit of the chapter on the Forest Giant still applies. Another chapter describes a hike to the world’s largest known Port Orford Cedar on the US Forest Service Powers Ranger District.
Another chapter provides a lesson in map-reading that explains base lines, meridians, sections, townships and ranges which subsequently can be used to locate specific spots. In her case, Mrs. Loftus locates old coal mines and towns, which she calls “ghosts of the past.” She shares map coordinates, although some of the places mentioned are now on private property or severely overgrown.
There are other chapters on cranberries, myrtlewood, Bandon cheese, Brookings lilies, the Letterbox Trail, even a famous lifesaving dog named Johnny Sprague.
No guidebook would be complete without a trip to Shore Acres, and it’s interesting to note her comments circa 1973 on the park’s sometimes “sad” condition, noting “perhaps one day the powers that be will see fit to restore this formal garden to its original beauty.” Happily, that day did indeed arrive later in the ’70s.
Curry County highlights include Floras Lake, Cape Blanco Lighthouse, Battle Rock, and the redwood grove near Brookings. There’s further guidance on fishing, although unlike earlier days a license is now required for most kinds of fishing and boating.
As if all this wasn’t enough to win you over, the little book is bound with a shoelace. As if to say, “tighten yours and let’s get going!”
The Coastline library system has copies you can peruse for free. But you don’t really need a guidebook to get Mrs. Loftus’s message: “Please – for long life and lasting enjoyment – don’t just sit!”
(Shopper columnist Tom Baake is author of regional guidebooks available at the Coos Bay Visitor Center.)
